The Matterhorn Summit Expedition, Chamonix/Zermatt
Climb the most recognisable peak in the world
5 days (*3 days)
€6,500 per person (*€3,800 per person)
Skill Level 4
At 4,478m, the Matterhorn is the most difficult classic in the Alps — and one of every aspiring alpinist’s life-defining objectives. Over five days, you’ll train and acclimatise on technical ground around the Mont Blanc massif with an IFMGA guide, before travelling to Zermatt to take on the Hörnli Ridge, the mountain’s historic and most iconic line, to the summit.
Given the exposure and technicality of the route, guiding is kept tight ata 1:1 ratio throughout to give you the best chance of a safe, successful climb.
Who is this for?
Climbers who’ve completed Technical Alpinism, or arrive with strong mixed rock-and-ice experience
Anyone using the Matterhorn as the add-on summit after Technical Alpinism
Experienced alpinists in excellent physical condition, comfortable on steep, exposed terrain
For UK climbers the North Wales 2 day ‘Technical Alpinism Preparation’ is run by an IFMGA guide and designed specifically for the Eiger and Matterhorn
The Expedition
Day 1 — Technical training, Chamonix A day on graded alpine terrain around the Mont Blanc massif to sharpen rope work, movement, and pacing — an example route would be the Arête des Cosmiques, a classic exposed ridge from the Aiguille du Midi. Overnight at altitude in the Cosmiques Hut.
Day 2 — Technical training, Chamonix A second day building toward Matterhorn-specific movement — an example would be the Tour Ronde or Aiguille du Peigne, both graded ridge or rock routes that mirror the pace and exposure of the Hörnli Ridge. Descend to Chamonix for a hotel night.
Day 3 — Travel & approach to the Hörnli Hut Travel to Zermatt, then a lift to Schwarzsee (2,583m) followed by a two-to-three-hour ascent to the Hörnli Hut (3,260m), perched directly on the ridge with the Matterhorn’s east face towering above. Hut night.
Day 4 — Summit day An early start — often before dawn — for the push up the Hörnli Ridge to the summit (4,478m). Return to the Hörnli Hut for a second night, built in as a weather and fitness buffer.
Day 5 — Second attempt, or descent If Day 4 didn’t go to plan, this becomes your summit push instead. Otherwise, descend to Zermatt for a hotel night — trip ends.
Weather and conditions rule on the Matterhorn more than almost anywhere else in the Alps. Your guide’s call on timing and turnaround is always final.
*3-day option — Summit only
Already trained and acclimatised? This is the summit push alone, Days 3–5 above, without the preceding training days in Chamonix.
What’s included
- 5 days 1:1 guiding (*3 days included) with IFMGA guides
- 3 nights in mountain huts (breakfast and dinner included) (*3 day included)
- All in mountain transport (train/lifts) (* 3 day included)
- Technical kit (crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet) (*3 day included)
Not included
- Airport transfers
- Hotel nights in Chamonix
- Mountain and travel insurance
- Meals outside of hut breakfasts/dinners
- Personal kit
- Guide gratuities
Price:
6,500€ per person 5 days (*3,800€ per person 3 days)
Duration:
5 days (*3 days)
Group size:
1:1 guiding
Fitness level:
Strong — Good fitness and good scrambling/climbing experience required
Dates:
June / July / August / September
Where Next?
Having built the technical foundation to take on the Matterhorn, many climbers set their sights on the Eiger next — the other classic technical add-on following our Technical Alpinism course. For those wanting to take on all three of the Alps’ great summits in one continuous journey, the Alps Triple Crown brings Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger together in a single expedition.
A note on conditions
The Alps don’t run to a fixed script, and recent summers have made that clearer than ever. Every course is weather and condition dependent, and your guide’s safety decisions — including changes to the route, the objective, or the schedule — are always final. Where a planned summit isn’t possible, your guide will offer the best available alternative on the day.